 |  BOOK REVIEWS THE CREAKY TRAVELER IN THE NORTH WEST HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND Warren Rovetch
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If you love Celtic music and myths, if you are interested in a slower kind of vacation that allows you time to connect with local people and savor their life and culture, if you love the idea of exploring a wild, primitive, spiritual land, but you’d still like to be comfortable on your journey, then you will find a lot to enjoy in Warren Rovetch’s Creaky Traveler series, even if you are not yet “creaky” or old.
Warren Rovetch’s The Creaky Traveler in the North West Highlands of Scotland: a Journey for the Mobile but Not Agile was written after Rovetch and his wife Gerda, both old enough to consider themselves “creaky”, visited the most northern sliver Scotland, what the book calls Great Britain’s last wilderness . They took a month and meandered along Scotland ’s north Atlantic coast, staying in small hotels, bed and breakfasts and guest houses that were almost always in view of both mountains and sea.
The first and longer part of the book, titled “A Journey of Discovery”, describes the trip Rovetch and his wife took. Their activities and lodgings, the roads they traveled, the scenery they saw and people met are all described in interesting detail. Like the Rovetch trip, the book takes its time. Each area they visited has its own chapter so there is room for discussions of geology, recent and ancient history, and local myths, customs, economies, governments and quirks, including a mention of the Toad Crossing warning sign they came across on one of their drives.
The second smaller section of the book, “On Being a Traveler”, gives practical information about how Rovetch and his wife planned their journey to be both adventurous and comfortable. Tips for “creaky” travelers are included, along with a quiz to determine just how “creaky” you are.
—Jennifer Bellis, Pathways Magazine
December, 2006
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The Creaky Traveler - perfect senior travel guide
Senior citizen Warren Rovetch and Gerda, his wife of 50 years have made 25 extended trips to Europe, slowly making the transition from travelers to “Creaky Travelers.”
Rovetch has written and informative and interesting book for the “mobile but not agile” traveler that is filled with history, geography, culture, fascinating people and many helpful hints for senior travelers.
The Creaky Traveler documents the Rovetches' journey through the North West Highlands of Scotland, which he calls Britain's “last wilderness.”
Travel books should appeal to those planning a trip and those not able, but who love to read about other people's travels.
The couple enjoy traveling independently, and tell how they plan their trips carefully, leaving room for the unexpected.
This particular adventure took them to an area of Scotland that is home to only 4 percent of the country's population, offering a casual lifestyle and unspoiled countryside that can be found in very few places these days.
The easy-reading book includes maps of the areas, plus beautiful color photos.
It is fun reading about the people and places that they got to know in the many small villages, staying in guest houses and visiting local pubs. They have also provided some interesting historical facts.
Whether or not you ever visit Scotland, you'll love the stories, and enjoy their approach to leisurely travel. This is not one of those “If it's Tuesday, it must be Belgium” travel books.
The chapters on Senior Travel trips are invaluable, as Rovetch provides simple but important suggestions for the Creaky Traveler, with a guide to assessing your individual limits, such as how far can you walk without needing a rest.
—Don Fowler, Warwick Beacon
December, 2006
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| The Creaky Traveler In The North West Highlands Of Scotland by experienced world traveler Warren Rovetch is a personal memoir and engaging travelogue of Britain's coastal wilderness. Penned with insight, charm, and vibrant impressions of culture, natural beauty, and the unique feel of the land itself, The Creaky Traveler is a very highly recommended, expressive, and readable Scottish Highlands guide for vacationers and armchair travelers alike. —Midwest Book Review September 3, 2003 | | Creaky, yes, but not necessarily too old to travel Old travelers never die - they just get creaky. But that shouldn't stop them from roaming.
At least that's the philosophy of Warren Rovetch of Boulder, whose first book, "The Creaky Traveler In the North West Highlands of Scotland: A Journey for the Mobile But Not Agile" (Sentinent Publications, $15.95, 184 pages), is enjoying immense popularity since publication in November. After an initial print run of 3,000, the book is about to go into a second printing of 10,000 copies.
It has gotten the buzz from readers after Tattered Cover owner Joyce Meskis singled it out for the top of her recommended holiday-buying list for National Public Radio's Morning Edition show, which aired Dec. 12. Rovetch is pleased about that because some 50,000 new titles were published in 2002, he says. He will speak at the Tattered Cover in Cherry Creek at 7:30 p.m. Thursday.
The book has sold out twice at the Boulder Bookstore after a review in Boulder's Daily Camera, Rovetch says. And a bookstore in Durness, in the northwest of Scotland - "about as far as you can go until you're in the water" - received more advance orders for this book than for "Harry Potter."
The author's easy, conversational style grabs the reader's hand and pulls him along as Rovetch delves into a part of the world he is passionate about, a place he calls "Britain's last wilderness." He describes the surroundings as "sit-and-stare country."
"It has a quality that empties the mind, touches the soul and lets the good stuff in," he writes.
Rovetch, 76, and his wife of 50-plus years, Gerda, or G, as she prefers, moved to Boulder in 1957. He was a Fulbright Scholar at Oxford and has been a government economist, an industrial engineer and a consultant to colleges and universities, among other things, he says.
The Rovetches have made at least 25 trips to Europe, each lasting three weeks or longer.
"While the scope of what we can manage has grown less over time ... our capacity to find meaning and enjoyment has grown," he writes.
"Less can be more. With good research, proper planning and an understanding of assistance readily available from airlines and others, any Creaky Traveler can satisfy needs of body and soul."
He says the name Creaky Traveler just came to him one day, then jokes, "I think it was an inspiration derived from climbing the stairs."
Rovetch includes a "How Creaky Are You?" test. Answers are rated 1-5 - 1 the best or easy for you, 5 the worst or hard for you.
How long can I be on my feet and walking around until I really need to sit down? (90 minutes equals 1, 15 minutes equals 5).
How many city blocks can I walk at a time? (1 block equals 5, 5 blocks equals 1). With a cane? Without a cane?
Can I tie my shoes bending over with my feet on the floor or do I have to rest each foot on a chair to tie my shoe?
Do I feel dizzy when I bend over or get up quickly?
When I climb or descend stairs, do I need to use a handrail?
How easy or hard is it for me to walk up/down a slope or small hill?
Can I lift a suitcase into the airplane luggage bin and get it down?
Can I put my pants (or skirt) on while standing up without having to hold on to something for support?
Do my joints and/or my back ache? Never? Sometimes? Always?
If you scored 40 or more, Rovetch says, get back in bed. Otherwise, start planning your trip.
Rovetch says many "young people in their 40s" are giving the book to their parents. "They feel it will help them to think about the possibilities of traveling and enjoying themselves."
Rovetch is writing a second book, this one on Ireland. "The Creaky Traveler intends to creak along," he says. —Mim Swartz for The Denver Post January 5, 2003 | | Putting the Atlantic Highlands on the map Picking up a book about the place you live in is like eavesdropping — you feel embarrassed and a bit worried about what you might find. But it can be rewarding if, like “The Creaky Traveler in the North West Highlands of Scotland”, it tells you what you didn’t know and heightens your appreciation of what you usually take for granted. For the visitor game enough to travel that extra mile to find the “real” Scotland, this new book makes an ideal companion.
Warren Rovetch is an American of a certain vintage. After a distinguished academic and business career — he was a Fulbright scholar at Oxford before working as an economist, industrial engineer and entrepreneur — he and his wife of fifty years decided, after a lifetime of travelling round Europe, to bypass the usual tourist routes and try something different.
It wasn’t actually the Rovetches’ first visit to the Highlands. Once they went to Mull and it hooked them. They were now older and more “creaky” and would plan their trip accordingly. A lady comedienne from the States recently complained that there was nothing to commend being old. This book proves her wrong: slowing down allows you to see things better.
The Rovetches planned their trip, which took them from Loch Maree in Wester Ross to Strathmore in Durness, in such a way that they would travel only short distances between stopping-off places. They would then stay in each of their lodgings for a few days, allowing time to soak up the atmosphere and get to know people. Like a holiday is supposed to be but rarely is.
Rovetch used the internet, e-mail, fax and telephone to plan the holiday and found it added to the experience. By the time he arrived at his small, friendly guest house or hotel, he felt he knew the people who ran it. The accommodation had to be distinctive, run by the owner, in a beautiful situation and provide good food. Friendliness was also on the list and was checked simply by making a transatlantic phone call before booking.
I think one can say that Warren Rovetch found the Scotland he sought. “The further north we traveled,” he writes, “the surer we were that Scotland is not just a different kind of England.”
Not for the Rovetches the ready-made trail. They made their own way in their own time, admired rather than climbed the mountains, stopping as they pleased, finding out what they wanted to know. They studied the history of crofting and acquainted themselves with Gaelic song and music. They took the precaution of learning to pronounce placenames before they ventured forth and the book includes an excellent chapter on the subject.
“As it turned out, calling The Ceilidh Place a hotel is like saying the Queen Elizabeth is a boat,” notes Rovetch on reaching Ullapool’s worst kept secret. The place was “rocking” to the music of the Highlands and crammed with the singers and instrumentalists of Feis Rois.
In Coigach they found the study of incomers — almost 60% of the population — to be well advanced, with an elaborate system of points scoring, awarded according to length of residence.
As elsewhere, Warren and Gerda Rovetch arrived in Assynt well prepared, having familiarised themselves with the books of Malcolm Bangor-Jones and John MacAskill — and a well loved Gaelic song. They met the singer of the song in her bookshop at Inverkirkaig and heard trenchant views on the state of Scottish government from an unnamed local there. As our cover picture shows, they found a large number of children playing a big part in some very unusual nature conservation. They had a memorable stay at the Albannach in Lochinver, where the combination of fine fare and the view of Suilven came close to Heaven.
After the magnificence of Handa Isle and all they had seen before, their senses received a jolt at Balnakeil craft village. How could a community of artists live in such ugly buildings? But when they looked inside one, the bookshop, they rather liked what they saw.
A visit to the Durness school confirmed that children are well catered for, with two full-time and six visiting teachers. Older children attend Kinlochbervie High now. No more boarding out in Golspie and looking up at the statue of the “judicious, kind, liberal landlord” on Beinn a’Bhragaidh. The same man, Rovetch informs, was responsible for driving their forebears off the best land to make way for sheep.
In Port-na-Con Guest House, near Laid, the Rovetches met Donald Grant, whose great-great grandfather shepherded at Freisgill, trying to fill the gaps in his family tree while their “one-of-a-kind” hostess Lesley Black made guests as comfortable as possible.
This is an inspiring yet highly practical guide for anyone who relishes people and places of character and wants to seek them out. It deals honestly and informatively with history, geography and contemporary issues and only stumbles over the occasional detail. It is well written, of real substance, and at 170 pages in a soft cover, just the size to carry in your pocket. With this fine book Warren Rovetch puts the region he aptly christens the “Atlantic” Highlands well and truly on the map. —Donald MacLeod for Am Bratach, The News Magazine of the North West Highlands November 2002 | | Older age helps Boulder Travel writer slow down and small the heather Not far from where the waters of Loch Assynt run into the sea on the Atlantic coast of Scotland, there is a narrow dirt path alongside a river bank. The nearby hills, Boulder's Warren Rovetch writes in "The Creaky Traveler in the North West Highlands of Scotland," are covered with bilberry and mosses, willow and birch trees, while small waterfalls and "quiet ponds, furious whirlpools, narrow passages" create "a wonderful variety of sounds and patterns."
It was on this path that Rovetch and his wife, Gerda, had "the perfect walk," just one of the many stories Rovetch relates in his first book. The book is subtitled "A Journey for the Mobile but not Agile," and it demonstrates that with careful planning, older people can still have great travel adventures.
However, "The Creaky Traveler" will appeal to more than just that demographic. It's for anyone interested in this wild and beautiful land on the north end of the United Kingdom. Because, like the best travel books, "The Creaky Traveler" transmits the experience of traveling with a pleasant companion who knows the land and the history well enough to be instructive in a non-pedantic way.
Writes Rovetch: "We traveled remote, winding, single-track roads, driving carefully and slowly to avoid sheep and newborn lambs that claim the right of way. A succession of deep sea lochs reach in from the Atlantic to define the crenellated coast ... The peaks of An Teallach, Suilven, Assynt, Ben Moore and Ben Hope rise abruptly one by one from their base, punctuating long views over heath-clad moors. This is sit-and-stare country. It has a quality that empties the mind, touches the soul and lets the good stuff in."
The 170-page book is full of such elegant writing. It describes a leisurely, month-long trip Rovetch took with Gerda (referred to throughout the book as "G"). Before leaving Boulder, Rovetch immersed himself in the lore, literature, songs and history of Scotland. Drawing upon this background in combination with his own experiences and insights, he offers an interesting, fun travel book that really conveys a sense of what the Highlands of Scotland are like.
The journey starts with the mundane, a flight from DIA, but continues through the hills, lochs and the people who live in this tough, beautiful and still untamed land, who are "often unmodern in priorities, materialistic yet with little sense of individual ambition." One silver lining to the "creakiness" older age is that it forces Rovetch and G. to slow down. Their unhurried approach to Scotland allowed them to develop a close, firm connection with the country's land and people.
Rovetch, now in his mid-70s, was a traveler long before he had experienced any hint of creakiness. Now, he and G. (who have traveled to Europe 25 times), have made a couple of concessions to age, such as using canes for the first time. What aging means, writes Rovetch, is that while "the scope of what we can manage has grown less over time, our capacity to find meaning and enjoyment has grown. Less can be more."
"The Creaky Traveler" has the feel of one of the guest houses Rovetch tells us about, warm and homey. The book includes several good maps (by Boulder artist Alison Richards) and color photographs that contribute to the feeling of intimacy. A separate section, "On Being A Traveler," offers essential travel tips for creaky and other travelers.
Rovetch writes that this journey to Scotland was the "best trip we have ever taken, creaky or not." We are given a clue as to why when in describing "the perfect walk" Rovetch writes, "This was one of those rare occasions when small things come together to create feelings of pleasure, peace and happiness that are long remembered, especially when the moment is shared with a person you love deeply. Then, all's right with the world."
P.S. "The Creaky Traveler" recently was mentioned on National Public Radio's list of best books to give for the holiday season.
Those interested in sharing their "creaky experiences" with Rovetch can email him at: warrenrovetch@msn.com —Michael Sandrock for the Daily Camera December 2002 | | Advice for the mobile but not agile traveler The subtitle of this heartwarming travel guide is: A Journey for the Mobile but Not Agile. The author and his wife, in their mid-70s, are experienced and frequent travelers who have provided a guide aimed at people whose age and physical limitations mean they can walk--but not too far--and can climb steps--but not too many. The book is divided into two sections: a journal of their trip through the northwest Highlands of Scotland, and a section of excellent advice for all travelers and for the "creaky" travelers.
The first section describes the breathtaking scenery and wonderful small towns and inns the Rovetchs visited: "This is sit-and-stare country. It has a quality that empties the mind, touches the soul, and lets the good stuff in." The author includes much information on history and culture of the Highlands; quotes from other travel guides, traveler journals, and the journals of Queen Victoria. He speaks with great fondness of the people they met in Scotland, and describes the Highlander's "instinct for 'community'" and "abiding love and respect for the land". If you have ever dreamed of a trip to northern Scotland, you must read this book to get a feel for the people and place.
Within the narrative about their travels are included many tidbits of advice for a comfortable and relaxing journey. The author advises taking things at an easy pace: "leave plenty of time to pause and inhale the views along the way, get to the next stop and get settled in by early afternoon, and don't get there tired." He reminds us of the stress put on both body and mind by coping with crowded airports and uncomfortable plane flights and jet lag. And all stresses are especially difficult for the aged or infirm traveller. Sensible suggestions are provided for making the trip as easy as possible. For example, Rovetch strongly advises the use of a cane -- it makes walking so much easier plus encourages others to treat you with more consideration and helpfulness; he even points out that a folding cane will fit in a tote bag. And he reminds the traveller to get a "cane prescription" from their doctor, since some airport security consider canes as possible weapons and require a medical letter stating that you need one.
And he reminds us all that we shouldn't have to come home to recover from our vacation.
The second section, "On Being a Traveller", is useful to anyone planning a trip and includes some of the most sensible and helpful general traveler and tourist advice I've read. It then goes into specifics for the "mobile but not agile", starting with the 'How Creaky Are You?' reality test covering things like how far can you walk at a time; how long can you be on your feet before needing to sit and rest; how easy is it for you to walk up hills or climb stairs or lift a suitcase. Rovetch's advice covers: · Balancing cost versus need: it is often worth it to spend a little more to be more comfortable and relaxed. · Rental cars - how to choose an appropriate model; remember the very high price of gas in other countries. · Renting a cell phone for emergency use (most US cell phones won't work in Europe). · Where you stay: elevators versus stairs; handicapped bathroom or other special needs; food onsite or very close. · Making special arrangements: for example, why you shouldn't be shy about requesting a wheelchair in airports. · Planning times to just sit and read or people-watch, to rest between more strenuous days. The author's final advice to the creaky traveler: "Most of all ask, ask, ask and tell, tell, tell. Let people know of any special needs you have." —Raelene Gorlinsky for The Best Reviews December 2002 | | This is really two books in one, part separate and part interwoven. The main book - about three quarters of the whole - recounts the author's travels up the north-west coast of Scotland. The other book is a handbook of travel advice for Creaky Travelers ("the mobile but not agile").
Rovetch and his wife travel modestly, covering perhaps 40 miles between each stopover of two or three days. This gives them plenty of time to stop and linger, admire views, talk to people, and soak up atmosphere. Being creaky, they do not go in for long walks, and certainly not uphill. While they lose out by being restricted to short distances from their car, their meticulous preparation and research mean they make the most of the places they can access. They make sure, too, that they are open to any serendipitous encounters which come their way and for which their leisurely pace gives them time.
It is 14 years since this reviewer travelled through the same area. Some things have clearly not changed: the wild and remote scenery, the shifting colours and textures of the landscape, the way the mountains of Assynt rise individually from the surrounding mosaic of moorland and lochans, the self-assured self-reliance of the people who carve a living out of this marginal land. Rovetch appreciates all these, and describes them with warmth and sympathy.
Other things, though, have changed. European Union money has made Lochinver a much more active fishing port. More comfortable and enjoyable places to stay and to eat in have opened. Traditional music has grown over a very short time from being an eccentric activity of a small minority into a significant movement. And the people of Assynt were the first to achieve a buy out of "their" land from the landlords whose vast estates cover most of the Scottish Highlands.
These aspects of Highland society are covered at some length. In fact the book deals far more with the people and the culture of the region than the scenery - there are relatively few passages just describing the landscape.
The handbook-within-a-book offers sound advice to less mobile travellers, although even non-Creakies will find plenty of useful tips. Rovetch's pre-departure research and preparation is particularly impressive. At times, though, the handbook and appendices intrude into the main account, sending the cover-to-cover reader flicking back to see where he or she had read some passage before - a thought, perhaps, for future books in the series.
But overall, Rovetch has shown how much there is to appreciate and enjoy in this corner of Scotland. Travelling with open eyes and ears, mind and heart, he knows that although he is only 600 miles from London he is in a completely different country. North American readers will particularly appreciate his handy rules of the road for driving in the Highlands, and discerning travellers everywhere will thank him for daring to speak out against the British catering industry's shameful abuse of so-called "toast"! ART
Overall verdict: Sympathetic and discerning account of a journey through the wild and remote north-west corner of Scotland —Travel Insights December 2002 | | Join the author of The Creaky Traveler, Warren Rovetch, on an intimate driving holiday through the North West Highlands of Scotland where encounters with nature and the region's unique culture are an entertaining part of "A Journey for the Mobile but Not Agile".
What happens to the backpacking crowd when their backs grow too weak with age to shoulder the burden, when the lure of the open road is still strong, but the feet are better suited to loafers than hiking boots? Do nights of camaraderie in student-packed hostels turn to breakfasts in bed at bed-and-breakfasts? Does hitchhiking give way to most car rentals? Well traveled, 70-something adventurers Warren Rovetch, and his wife Gerda [known affectionately as G], answer these questions and many more in a charming yet practical new book, The Creaky Traveler in the North West Highlands of Scotland: A Journey for the Mobile but not Agile.
Read the rest of this article with excerpts and photos from the book here. —Travel with a Challenge January 2003 | | Sub-titled A Journey for the Mobile but Not Agile, the author has found a good combination of travelogue, guidebook and charm to capture readers' attention. Aimed at more mature outdoor enthusiasts, this illustrated account takes us through the barren beauty of the north-west Highlands, detailing scenery, people and travel tips. —The Scots Magazine May 2003 | |  |